Some may not think so, but eyeliner is just as necessary as eye shadow in completing a full face of makeup and can even be worn without shadow. Eyeliner frames the eyes and is one of the few finishing touches in makeup. It can make or break a look you want to achieve (e.g. bright eyes), or mood you want to convey (e.g. youthful, bright, vixen, etc.) - the key is precision. Well, precision and knowing what looks are most appropriate at any given time. Let's take an informed and strategic look at eyeliner application, considering desired outcomes, colors, liner types and application techniques. First, we'll review application based on eye shape and the goal of your look. Then, we'll cover the different types of liners and application techniques.
A Narrow View
Apply liner to the top and bottom lids to make the eyes appear less round. The closed look is ideal if you have very round eyes. In some instances, you may go a little heavier on the liner applied just above the roundest part of each eye. For that "Egyptian" or "vixen" look, extend the liner applied to the upper lid (just a little) starting from the inner corner of the eye, with a slight upward stroke.
Widen the Scope
For those of us who have more narrow eyes and want to make them appear more open, apply liner to the top lid and halfway through the bottom lid (stopping just under the color or your eye).
A Bright Outlook
Some clients desire a more youthful appearance and may request "bright eyes." When addressing that desired outcome, regarding eye makeup, I apply liner to the upper and lower lids, avoiding or minimizing application to the roundest portions of the eyes. And in some extreme cases, I add white or beige to the roundest portions to achieve the desired look.
Types of Eyeliner
Liquid-Based Liner
Liquid liners require a steady and skilled hand. If you dare, be certain to apply liquid liner gently - in one swift, continuous line. A small eyeliner brush is fine to use for application, if your personal supply does not already come with an applicator.
Gel, Cream and Wax-Based Liners
A standard eyeliner pencil is likely wax-based. Cream/gel-based liner are great for novice and pros. A small angle brush or an eyeliner brush could be used to apply any of these eyeliner consistencies.
Cake or Powder Liner?
Sure! Powder liners work just fine and can set a liquid or wax liner very well. It can also be used alone. I use a small angled brush to apply powder liner. I may dampen the brush with a setting liquid (to sharpen the line), and apply or set using a black or dark brown matte finish eye shadow - works like a gem! I also recommend using a small angled brush to apply 'cakey' liners.
Tips & Advice
- Until you become an expert at applying liner, start with a "light hand," remembering the less is more approach - particularly in the inner corners of your eyes.
- Take chances when you are comfortable or become a pro in your own right.
- Be sure to connect the liner in each corner of the eye when lining the top and bottom lids.
- Keep makeup remover, wipes or q-tips handy to quickly and easily correct as you go.
- Practice, practice, practice. It takes practice, and patience. So don't get frustrated if you don't accomplish your desired look right away.
The Eyes Have It: Eye Shapes, Placement and Dimension
The Eyes Have It: Bow the Brow
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